Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
